Few people fail to fall in love with Portoferraio. Behind the harbour the 18th century buildings in shades of cream and ochre are tucked under the craggy 16th century citadel, built originally by Cosmino, Duke of Florence. The warrens of alleys and staircases are lined with dwellings, shops and restaurants and occasionally lead to unexpected views of the sea behind. You should climb to the citadel walls at least once to watch the sunset and the sea below turning liquid red and sepia as it washes over the rocks and the reefs. Without doubt Portoferraio is at its best in the spring or autumn when there are fewer tourist, but it should not be missed even at the height of summer.